2005 Upper Teesdale 21st to 22nd June Main Meeting
Nineteen members met at Bowlees Visitor Centre Car Park on a warm but breezy morning. We began the day by botanising in a disused limestone quarry now colonised by a good range of plants. In a boggy patch, Dactylorhiza x venusta grew with both its parents Dactylorhiza purpurella (northern marsh orchid) and Dactylorhiza fuchsii (common spotted orchid) close by. A nice colony of Blysmus compressus (flat-sedge) was flowering, whilst Luzula multiflora ssp. multiflora grew alongside Luzula multiflora ssp. congesta (heath wood rushes) allowing comparison. Carex pulicaris (flea sedge), Carex panicea (carnation sedge) and Carex viridula ssp. brachyrrhyncha (yellow-sedge) were seen along with a single flowering plant of Crepis paludosa (marsh hawk's-beard). The midges were present in their thousands as our leader Vincent Jones, introduced us to the genus Hieracium (hawkweeds). The number of stem leaves on the plant corresponds to the time of flowering. The early flowering species have few leaves whilst the later flowering species have many leaves. The type of hairs present on the phyllaries is important when identifying Hawkweeds.
Three species of Hieracium could be seen here on the rock face; Hieracium vulgatum, Hieracium cravoniense with long white phyllary hairs and Hieracium pellucidum having only one stem leaf and black glandular hairs. Geum x intermediumwas present as was a lovely stand of Listera ovata (common twayblade). Before leaving the quarry we stopped to examine a couple ofeyebrights. Euphrasia nemorosawas compared with E. nemorosa x E. confusa. Leaving the car park, we drove off in convoy to a number of roadside stops. At Langdon Beck, Alchemilla acutiloba was flowering on a grassy bank. The leaves of this species have noticeably larger teeth in the centre of each lobe. A little further on in similar habitat, Alchemilla xanthochlora grew with the rare Alchemilla monticola. By the side of a quiet lane at Peghorn Lodge we came across a few plants of Peucedanum ostruthium (masterwort), but close by a bigger and better colony had established on a stony wall on private land. Along a track leading to Widdybank Farm, we stopped by a marshy ditch to see Dactylorhiza incarnata ssp. incarnata (early marsh-orchid). Myosotis secunda (creeping forget-me-not) also occurred here, identified by the spreading hairs at the base of the stem. A short walk from the farm, at the edge of a hay meadow, we came across Rhinanthus minor ssp. monticola(yellow rattle). It differed from the more common ssp. minor by its browny-yellow flowers, narrower leaves and more slender habit. Also worth noting was the large flowered Euphrasia nemorosa x E. arctica ssp. borealis. In a damp patch of grass a variety of sedges could be seen, Carex hostiana (tawny sedge), C. curta (white sedge), C. echinata (star sedge) and C.pallescens (pale sedge). The latter species has a little ripple at the base of each upper bract. On a heathy bit Festuca ovina (sheep's-fescue) grew with the tuft-forming Festuca rubra ssp. commutata (red fescue). At Cetry Bank we were shown a number of delightful alpines.
Looking carefully we found Bartsia alpina (alpine bartsia), Kobresia simpliciuscula(false sedge) showing its typical brown sheaths and the dainty Carex capillaris (hair sedge). Primula farinosa (bird's-eye primrose) and Gentiana verna (spring gentian) were in fruit whilst Saxifraga aizoides (yellow saxifrage) would flower later in the season. Juncus alpinoarticulatus (alpine rush) may be found here too.
After lunch at Bowlees car park, we made a short walk to the River Tees, passing by an impressive display of Chenopodium bonus-henricus (good-King-Henry) naturalised at the foot of a wall. On a rocky limestone island beside the Tees, we encountered more Hawkweeds. These were Hieracium sabaudum, not yet in flower, H. diaphanoides, H. dicella and the riverside speciality H. lissolepium. Sesleria caerulea (blue moor-grass) had long finished flowering.
Further exploration along the Durham side of the Tees, revealed Sorbus rupicola (rock whitebeam) perched on a limestone rock face. At first sight S. rupicolaresembles S. aria, but more detailed observation will show the former has 7-10 pairs of lateral leaf veins and S. aria has 10 - 14 pairs. Beside the river grew Salix phylicifolia (tea- leaved willow) displaying its remaining heads of fluffy white seed and higher up clinging to a shady rock face was Asplenium trichomanes ssp. pachyrachis var. subequale. Melica nutans (mountain melick) looked very graceful and appreciated the shelter of a shaded rock ledge.
Crossing Wynch Bridge, one at a time, we arrived on the Yorkshire side of the Tees. The stretch of Peninne Way between Wynch Bridge and Holwick Bridge is extremely botanically rich and many species were seen. Rubus saxatilis (stone bramble) grew on a shaded rock crevice with Hieracium auratiflorum nearby. Just beyond the sculptured sheep, we had a nice stand of Cirsium heterophyllum(melancholy thistle) and opposite Betula pubescens (downy birch) stood next to the multi-branched B. pubescens ssp. tortuosa. In the spring a scent of resin is produced, arising from glands on its twigs.
A single Gymnadenia conopsea ssp. borealis (fragrant orchid) was in perfect form. Willows were well represented and included Salix x laurina, S. x multinervis, S. repens and on the water's edge S. x ludificans. Geranium sylvaticum (wood crane's-bill) was plentiful and the sterile Mimulus x robertsii (hybrid monkeyflower) enjoyed the damp conditions of the riverbank. On a whinstone island the very localised Potentilla fruticosa (shrubby cinquefoil) was quite abundant. Equisetum pratense (shady horsetail), one of Britain's rare horsetails, grew amongst grassy vegetation and the elegant Equisetum sylvaticum (wood horsetail) appeared in good numbers too. At Holwick Bridge, we took time to examine the rare Dryopteris oreades (mountain male-fem) alongside the common Dryopteris filix-mas (male-fem).
The following day we met near Hanging Shaw and from here we walked up to the summit of Cronkley Fell. At Cronkley Bridge, we made a short detour along the riverbank, where more exciting plants were seen. Salix caprea ssp. sphacelata grew here which is very rare in England. The name 'sphacelata' means gangrened and refers to the leaf tips that have a blasted appearance. The silky hairs on the upper side of the leaves are diagnostic giving this willow a whitish appearance. Cochlearia pyrenaica (Pyrenean scurvy grass) nestled on the very edge of the riverbank and nearby in open grassland Dactylorhiza x transiens grew in small numbers but were well past their best. Growing in a gravel flush, we saw Equisetum variegatum (variegated horsetail), whilst the scarce and very hairy Hieracium iricum grew on a bare, stony bank. Typical of section Cerinthoidia was its glaucous-green stem leaves. In a damp pocket, Mimulus guttatus x luteus x variegatus (the triple hybrid monkeyflower), grew a few feet from the water's edge. Crossing Cronkley Bridge, a nice patch of Galium boreale (northern bedstraw) was just beginning to flower on an old stone wall.
A strong wind blowing against us meant progress up Cronkley Fell was quite tough. En route the surrounding vegetation was dominated by heather with Juncus squarrosus (heath rush), Nardus stricta (mat-grass) and Pedicularis sylvatica(lousewort) occurring too. Towards the summit, the very lovely Thalictrum alpinum(alpine meadow-rue) was half hidden by other vegetation. Its tiny metallic looking leaves were held on slender stems and one fluffy, purple flower proved difficult to find.
On bare, stony ground Taraxacum unguilobum and T. lacistophyllum could be seen here and there. Sharp eyes revealed the tiny Juncus triglumis (three-flowered rush) growing in a wet flush whilst the base of some large rocks provided a suitable niche for Cryptogramma crispa (parsley fern). At the summit, within a fenced enclosure the endemic and extremely rare Helianthemum oelandicum ssp. levigatum (hoary rock-rose) was just in flower. It grew on the very fragile and exposed sugar limestone, and was accompanied by the more familiar Helianthemum nummularium(common rock-rose).
Other good finds here included Minuartia verna (spring sandwort), Carex ericetorum (rare spring-sedge), Galium sterneri (limestone bedstraw) and Draba incana (hoary whitlowgrass) showing its characteristic twisted fruit. The yellow cones of Selaginella selaginoides (lesser clubmoss) were much to be admired and equally delightful was the unusual Botrychium lunaria (moonwort). The large-flowered Viola lutea (mountain pansy) grew in several sites being yellow in some forms and bicoloured in others. Our final plant was Dryas octopetala (mountain avens) here, its woody, creeping stems clung tightly to the side of an open bank. A steady downhill walk in warm sunshine completed our two-day expedition in Upper Teesdale.
Many thanks to Vincent Jones for his expert guidance and for showing us all so many special Teesdale plants.
KATHRYN HART